Analyzing the pattern: Marinique Lingerie

The pattern I got from Elingeria is the Marinique Lingerie set (link) that contains patterns for 4 different bras and 8 different panties. I am not planning to use the panty patterns nor the underwired bra patterns, but they're nice to have for reference. The set contains two wirefree bra patterns, Charné and Azalia, both described on the site as "wireless bras with underbust band". Here is an image of the four bras I have the patterns for now: 

Charné looks like a regularly cut cup (at least in the way the Bra-makers manual shows a cup), while the cup in Azalia is more baseball cup -like. I'm very interested in finding out which suits me better. I'm pretty sure that I need to change the pattern so that there is a lot more space for the breast horizontally compared to the cup volume - I will probably have to shorten the band (and for style reasons make it less tall) and add some width to the cups. At first I will test the patterns exactly as they are though. 


I think that I will start with the Charné bra. The directions for Charné and Azalia are exactly the same, I suspect that mainly only the cup shape differs in the bras. The directions themselves are somewhat vague and difficult to understand (I suspect that English is not the original language of this pattern...). I think that using only these directions as a guide it would be a very difficult job to sew a well-made bra, but luckily I have many sources.  


I traced the Charné pattern in size 36D (the only band size I have). Immediately I noticed that the band part in the front ends in a vertical straight line at the side - this is a sign of a poor pattern according to the BMM. (The body naturally curves so the pattern should be slanted as well.) Let's hope that it's not indicative of the quality of the pattern overall. Here are the pattern pieces I traced: 

What comes to mind when I look at the pattern pieces: 

• the center front is too high for my taste
• the back band is too high for my taste (like, 50% too high) 
• the back band piece is very much just a horizontal line, it needs to be changed into a "downward hike" 
• the join between the cup and the back band is a vertically straight line, I'm thinking that is should be straight but slanted (since the edge of the breast is slanted as well) 

When I thought about these features I immediately ran into a problem: I'm willing to try the size 36D as it is (and will probably sew a test garment with these pieces tomorrow), just to see how much I need to change it (if I need more space in the cups, and how much wider I need to make the front) but I'm not sure how to make the changes I'm planning to make. I need to make the cups less protruding (decrease the volume) and at the same time make them wider. How do I change the pattern pieces in order to do that?